Java Adventure Guide by Periplus Editors ;

Author:Periplus Editors,;
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 1664967
Publisher: Tuttle Publishing

Pinisi being off-loaded at Kail Mas.

Back on Jl. Kapasan, a right turn at its eastern end into Jl. Kapasari leads to a flea-market that attracts swarms of people on Sunday mornings and afternoon. Continuing south, the road turns into Jl. Kusumabangsa, site of the THR Surabaya Mall, where the masses shop. It has indoor and outdoor theaters for traditional performing arts and not-so-traditional kitsch pop music. Next door is Taman Remaja Surabaya (Surabaya Youth Park), a non-stop night market and talent show. Of special interest on the outdoor stage is the Thursday night transvestite show. In their best falsettos they sing folk tunes to which young men attempt to dance.

The suburbs

Out at the eastern edge of the city, at the end of Jl. Kenjeran, lies the Kenjeran Beach Amusement Park (Pantai Ria Kenjeran). Not much of a beach, and the new amusement park has turned into a "love hotel," but the old park does offer some good seafood. It is set amidst Madurese fishing settlements where a popular pastime is pigeon racing; it's illegal but still goes on. Hire a boat for a cruise along the coast.

South and west of Kenjeran, past the new Surabaya Institute of Technology (ITS) campus, is a garish nouveau-riche suburb. The Indonesia-America Friendship Association gallery here has some worthwhile art exhibits at times. There are also good handicraft and textile collections at Toko Mirota.

At the southern end of Surabaya along Jl. Raya Darmo is a an elegant neighborhood developed by the Dutch early this century. Just opposite the entrance to the zoo, at Jl. Taman Mayangkera 6, is the Mpu Tantular Museum housing small but interesting historical and archaeological collections in the former residence of the Javaasche Bank agent. From the museum it is short walk to Kebun Binatang, one of Southeast Asia's oldest and largest zoos. Among its exhibits are somnolent Komodo dragons and Borneo river dolphins. Also in the Darmo area is the Centre Culturel Francois on Jl. Darmokali; it has occasional art exhibits, films and musical performances.

The route back toward the city center along Jl. Diponegoro leads to a busy intersection at Jl. Girilaya. This street is notorious for a thriving brothel, locally known as Dolly's, after the madam who pioneered the district's sex industry in the 1960s. This red light district is a jarring blend of suburban homes, places of worship and brothels.

— Dédé Oetomo

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